Lawn Care Guides

Watering Guide

New Lawns

• Water within 30 minutes of installation, soaking the soil underneath — not just the grass surface.

• Water once daily, more often on hot days above 85°F. The goal is soil that stays moist to about 2 inches deep at all times.

• To check: lift a corner of the sod (only where it hasn’t rooted yet) and push a screwdriver into the ground. It should slide in easily and feel moist along the first six inches.

• Corners, edges, and areas near driveways or walls dry out fastest — make sure your whole lawn gets even coverage, not just the middle.

• If you see runoff or standing water, stop and wait 30–60 minutes before continuing so water has time to soak in instead of running off.

Established Lawn

• Once you can’t easily lift a corner of the sod, it means roots have taken hold — this is when you shift away from daily watering.

• Water less often but more deeply. This trains roots to grow downward, building a stronger, more drought-resistant lawn.

• Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, combined from rain and irrigation. If it rained an inch or more, skip watering that week.

• Best time to water is between 4 PM and 10 AM — ideally just before sunrise. Midday watering loses too much to evaporation, and wet grass overnight can encourage disease.

• Dormant grass still needs water. Brown winter grass isn’t dead — give it about half an inch per week during dry spells so it comes back strong in spring.

Lawn Care Guide

Heat & Drought Adjustment:

During periods of intense heat or dry weather, raise your mowing height to about 2 inches. This reduces stress on the grass and helps it cope with the conditions.

Fall & Winter:

Continue mowing at your regular height until the lawn naturally goes dormant. Don’t let it grow long heading into winter — keep the height consistent rather than skipping mows.

Weed Control:

Apply a pre-emergent treatment once a year between February 15 and March 15 — this is the single most effective window to prevent weeds before they germinate. Only use post-emergent treatments if weeds are already visible and the grass is actively growing, not under drought stress. Avoid any herbicide on sod younger than 30 days.

Mowing Height & Frequency:

Mow every 4–7 days during active growth (spring through summer), keeping the height between 1 and 1.5 inches. Never cut more than a third of the grass blade in a single pass — cutting too short in one go stresses the lawn and opens the door to weeds and disease.

First Mow After Installation:

Wait until the sod is firmly rooted (usually 2–3 weeks) and the grass reaches about 1.5–2 inches before the first cut. Mowing too early can pull the sod loose before it’s anchored.

Mower Blades:

Keep blades sharp. Dull blades tear grass instead of cutting cleanly, which increases water loss and makes the lawn more prone to disease.

Grass Clippings:

Leave clippings on the lawn after mowing (as long as you’re not removing more than a third of the blade at once). They break down quickly and return nutrients to the soil.

Fertilization Guide

Fall Cutoff – Important:

Stop fertilizing with high-nitrogen products after August 31.

Fertilizing too late pushes new growth right before the lawn goes dormant, which weakens it heading into winter. Avoid “winterizer” blends with high nitrogen content.

Winter:

No fertilization needed while the lawn is dormant.

Why Less Is More:

This lawn variety is bred to need less fertilizer than older bermudagrass types while still holding its color longer into fall and greening up earlier in spring. Over-fertilizing doesn’t speed this up – it just increases mowing frequency and disease risk.

First Fertilization:

Wait until your new lawn has been mowed 2–3 times before applying any fertilizer. The starter fertilizer used during installation is typically enough to carry it through the first several weeks.

Spring:

As the lawn greens up and starts actively growing, apply a light, balanced fertilizer. Needs vary based on soil condition and local climate — a soil test tells you exactly what your lawn needs rather than guessing.

Summer:

Continue with light applications during active growth. Bermuda-type lawns need less fertilizer than most people expect — over-fertilizing wastes money and can burn the grass.